1964 Boston Whaler 13'
To see all my pictures of this boat, go to my main Whaler page

I have been asked to create a page outlining the steps involved in re-furbishing my 1964 Boston Whaler 13'. I am not putting this boat back to factory stock, however, still keeping the general Boston Whaler theme.

Here is what my boat looked like when I got it. It was in pretty rough shape, although very functional and dependable.

I decided in January of 2004 that I wanted to make the boat like new again. I stripped the boat down the 2nd weekend in January and here is what it looked like.

I made an engine stand out of 2x4 and some plywood so I could mount my outboard, roll it around, have the gas tanks and batteries all in the same location so I could run my engine during the down time.

To sand off all of the glue, crap and other stuff that was on the inside, I used my DA sander with 40 grit paper. This was a very time consuming process. There were holes that needed to be filled, faired, etc. I used SeaFit Marine Structural Filler to fill the holes and then faired with Seafit Marine Surfacing Putty from West Marine. The structural filler was harder to work with and had to apply it in places with my fingers (wear those rubber gloves that you can get like 100 for $3 or so). This structural filler is a very hard and sound....I then applied the Marine Surfacing Putty to fair it out. Here is what it looked like after the sanding, filling, fairing, etc.

After finishing the inside with the exception of applying the Ultra-Tuff rubberized coating - (I will do this after I gel-coat the exterior) I have flipped the boat to start working on the outside of the hull. There was a ton of bottom paint and silicone. . Here is a picture pretty much right after flipping the boat over. Notice the large hole. As I started sanding the hull with the DA and 40grit paper again, I found some repairs that were water tight, but not done the correct way according to Boston Whaler. I wanted them done right so I started grinding out the repairs to fix it the correct way. Here is another shot where I've ground out the old repairs and getting ready for the new repairs.
To fix these repairs correctly, I followed the instructions from the continuouswave website http://www.continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerRepair.html . In summary, I made a hooked tool to remove some of the foam from the back of the holes near the edges. I feathered the fiberglass down with the grinder. Once this was done, I mixed up the fiberglass resin and some chopped mesh and applied it to the back of the hole, filled the hole with more resin and chopped mesh, then applied some 6oz cloth on top of that with the resin. this got the repair fairly smooth with the surface of the hull, hence that is why I feathered the fiberglass down around the edges. I then filled on top of that with the Marine Structural Filler After sanding the structural filler, it was time to apply the Marine Surfacing Putty to completely fair the repair to make it un-noticeable.

Once I had the entire hull sanded, faired and re-sanded, it was time to apply the gelcoat primer. I'm using Gelcoat from LBI Fiberglass. LBI has a primer called four-seal primer that goes on before spraying the gelcoat. My 13' whaler took 1 gallon of this primer, mixed roughly 33% with primer grade laquer thinner and 2.5% MEK hardener. Here are some pics after spraying the primer These depict my status with the boat from mid-January 2004 to February 22, 2004. As I make progress, I will update this page.

It has been a lot of work up to this point, but so far it has been pleasureable.

***************UPDATE - MARCH 9, 2004*********************

Sprayed the gelcoat on Friday March 5, 2004. I thinned the gelcoat with Acetone 25% accroding to directions from LBI. ***** CAUTION****some thin with Styrene instead of Acetone***** Check with the manufacturer of your gelcoat for their recommendations. When I thinned with Acetone, I was instructed to give it time for the Acetone to flash off before recoating.

I sprayed 3 coats and this stuff is thick! My gun took 5 cups to spray 1 coat. I mixed 12oz gelcoat, 3oz Acetone and 7.5cc of MEK hardner per cup. It took several hours to get all 3 coats on due to letting the gelcoat flash between coats. I used 1 clear cup with measurements on it for the gel, 1 clear cup with measurements for the acetone, and had a measuring tool for the mek. Once I had all three ready, I poured the acetone and gel into a disposable paper mixing bucket from Home Depot. stirred it a while, then poured in the mek, stirred it more and then poured into my cup. I would use a new paper mixing bucket each time. I cleaned the gun each time after it ran out of mix.

I have started sanding the hull now. This is much more work than paint but I feel it will be worth it as this stuff doesn't seem to scratch like paint and is much thicker. I have sanded 1/2 of the boat with 320 wet/dry. This has taken about 5 hours. I will start on the other 1/2 on Tuesday evening. Once I have sanded with the 320, I will switch to 600, then 1200 and polish out.

I've done all 3 steps on the outside of the transome and the gloss/finish looks superb...really smooth, like new.

If you're not into a lot of tedius sanding, don't do the gelcoat. If you want a tough finish and not afraid of some manual labor, do the gelcoat. If I had to do it over again, I would still do the gelcoat.

My Ultratuff coating came in on Monday and is the color I was looking for. I'm hoping to get the boat polished and put back on the trailer by Sunday and spray the rubberized coating next week. After that, it will be time to start building my console.

I won't be posting pictures until I have it polished out as it looks the same from a distance, so the pictures wouldn't show anything new.

***************UPDATE - MARCH 10, 2004*********************

I finished sanding the hull with the 320 last night. I now have over 10 hours wet sanding with the 320. I will now start the 600 and then 1200. I was very relieved to have the 320 done as that was the majority to get rid of the orange peel. Now it is time just to remove the 320 marks.

***************UPDATE - MARCH 11, 2004*********************

I finished the sanding of the gel coat with the 600 and 1200. These are much easier to sand with than the 320 getting the orange peel out. The boat already shines and I haven't even polished it. It is exceptionally smooth to the touch...This ought to help in the speed department compared to the flaking bottom paint and poor repairs that were on the bottom before. I will try to polish out tonight and then I can take some more pictures and post

***************UPDATE - MARCH 15, 2004*********************

Polished the boat with 3m Superduty Rubbing Compound then Finesse II. Then put a marine wax on it. I used a Makita 9277C 7" Variable Speed Polisher. This has the hook n loop polishing pads that work great. The variable speed makes a BIG difference in polishing. Here are some pics

I had 3 friends help me place it back on the trailer (2 could do it, but didn't want to chance it after all this work .
I taped the boat up getting ready to apply the Ultratuff coating. .

I rolled on the primer for the Ultra tuff using a small roller. I let the primer dry 7 hours! long time and I was antsy...but I waited. I sprayed 2 gallons of Ultra Tuff in 2 coats. The first coat goes on light, then heavier for the second. I used a texture gun hopper with the dial set at 1/4". the only thing I didn't like about the Ultra tuff is it had a tendency to pool up if you weren't careful. It sure looks good and feels good to the skin

Here are some closeup pics of the ultratuff

***************UPDATE - MARCH 22, 2004*********************

I added the rubrail, new wiring inside the rubrail and cut the bow locker cover this weekend. I will start work on the console this evening.

I got the Rubrail and Boston Whaler Logos from Sue at http://www.twincitiesmarine.com. I used the black receiver track and black insert. I opted to leave off the top "L" moulding that is typically used on the 13' & 15' boats. I liked the look of it without it. Here a some pics of the bow locker cover, rubrail and the wires exiting the bow.

Here is a shot of the interior with bow locker cover, transom eyes and secured to the trailer.
Here is a shot with the new Whaler Logos, Rub Rail and Bow Locker Cover.

***************UPDATE - April 5, 2004*********************

I've almost finished my Center Console. I'm building it out of 1/2 maring grade Okoume which is very similar to Mahogany. I've stripped the edges with Mahogany to cover the end-grains. Here is a pic of just the wood that is cut to rough dimensions.
Here are some pics during the glue-up process.

I designed the console to fit the boat so I can have the 12 gallon fuel tank mounted in the console. Here is a pic of the console without the door that will be on to cover the opening from the shelf to the dash

I'm currently in the process of putting the final coats of varnish on the console. I took a preliminary pic of the console with 2 coats of varnish because someone asked me for it.

I have 1 more coat of varnish to put on this evening. I've cut all the holes for the steering, gauges, binnacle mount controls, etc. I'm hoping to have it installed later this week.

***************UPDATE - April 28, 2004*********************

I've finished my boat and have taken for a maiden voyage and a weekend of fishing. Here are some more pics depicting the progress.

Here are some pics of the transom filler piece. This is a pic looking from the rear. It is glued up mahogany that is curved to match the transom. This next shot is what I wanted it to look like but it just didn't turn out like I wanted. I had a problem with the curved transom when we mounted the CMC plate.

This shot shows how I modified the Carolina Skiff floor plate. It comes as a 8' straight piece, but I put an angle in it to match up to the bottom of the console. I have not yet put the rubberized coating on it.

Here are some of the completed pics. . Here is a shot of the top of the console. If you look at the base of the console, you can barely make out the floor plate cover. It now has the rubberized coating so it blends in really well. This floor plate is very durable and can handle my weight standing on it . This next shot shows the open shelf in the console where the air horn, fish identification book, extra plug and the required toilet paper . This next pic shows the CMC PT-35 tilt/trim unit with the engine raised .
...and this last pic shows the boat ready for fishing .

To see all my pictures of this boat, go to my main Whaler page

Drop me an email: mike@keltonkerw.com

Here is a list of the materials that I have used or will have used shortly. I will have to say that I've been impressed with all of the materials that I've used so far.
2 qts Seafit Marine Structural Filler from West Marine
3 qts Seafit Marine Surfacing Putty from West Marine - I really liked both of the seafit products
1 gallon Boat Yard Fiberlass Resin from West Marine
6oz cloth from West Marine
50 pieces of commercial 40 grit paper for my DA from an Autobody Paint Store
10 sheets 60 grit paper from Home Depot
1 Gallon Four-Seal Primer from LBI
2 Gallons White Gelcoat with wax additive from LBI
1 Gallon primer grade laquer thinner for the Fourseal primer from an Autobody Paint Store
3 Gallons Acetone from Home Depot
New HVLP Spray gun with a 2.2mm nozzle. I got the gun from http://www.mytoolstore.com I ordered the one with the 1.7mm nozzle so I could do other work, and then ordered the 2.2mm nozzle
2 gallons UltraTuff coating for the interior from http://www.ultratuff.net/
2 qts UltraTuff primer for the Ultratuff from http://www.ultratuff.net/
10 sheets 320 grit wet/dry paper
7 sheets 600 grit wet/dry paper
5 sheets 1200 grit wet/dry paper
1 gallon 3M super duty rubbing compound 1 qt. Finesse II Boston Whaler Rub Rail from Sue at http://www.twincitiesmarine.com

To see all my pictures of this boat, go to my main Whaler page